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THE RED SEA - LIVEABOARD - EMPRESS FRAZER
'Simply The Best' - A review of the liveaboard holiday onboard M/Y Frazer May  - 2006

This is it, the ultimate report from what was without doubt, the “ultimate” Warm Water Rush, our Simply the Best trip, 2006 !

We’ve never added this one to our schedule before, and even this year the take up was a little slow, but ‘wow’ its got its place secure for ever now. With the number of Scuba + Outdoor trips John has taken over the last 12+ years, to destinations including The Red Sea, Maldives and more, it is an amazing feat for this one to be (by his own admission) THE BEST DIVE TRIP EVER

Ok so down to the finer points, exactly what did make it the best ever.... In a word “sharks”, and lots (and lots) of them, in every conceivable shape, size and variety. The role call for them is almost limitless, including Hammerheads; Thresher Sharks; Grey Reef Sharks and Oceanic White Tips. 

The travelling was a pain, although once on board we were acquainted with our dive guides, Jim and Uta, and our fellow Shark enthusiasts “The Germans” (guess where they’re from ?). After John did his bit to build Anglo-German relations, by introducing them to fine Scottish Malt on the first evening, we all awoke early to scoff down a tasty breakfast. Check-out dive completed, and then we were off on a 6 hour steam south to The Brothers islands.

Whilst we completed a total of 5 dives on Little Brother, over the latter half of day 2 and all of day 3 we were treated to the most majestic of wall dives; the best and quickest ever Red Sea drift dive (Wahey !), and introduced to the joys of “heading into the blue”. Although we were still warming up our Shark detecting senses on these dives we did see a couple of Sharks on each dive, however the best of these saw us head out into the blue at approx 30m. Jim had briefed us that we would have to wait there for some time and then the Sharks would come in, but no-way, the Sharks were everywhere in minutes. On this dive alone we had a multitude of ‘big’ Grey Reef Sharks, and even a couple of Threshers.

So a big ‘tick’ in the box for Little Brother, now off to Big Brother (no not the infamous Channel 4 reality show, the world class reef island in the Red Sea). Here we left the Sharks in peace for a while, while Jim and Uta gave us a guided tour of the 2 wrecks to be found here. A quick reef dive to wrap the day up, and off to Dadaleous, with the promise of Hammerheads.

Ouch, a really early start for today, with an early dawn dive planned. We all listened more intently than ever for this one, the plan being to head out into the blue at about 30m, just at the point at which the current splits. We followed our instructions to the letter, and hovered almost motionless. With 15 divers all scouring the blue for the slightest sign of anything with a fin, there was no way we could miss anything. Waiting, waiting, waiting and then all of a sudden there they were 4, 5, 6, 7 no 10, 12, 14 (or maybe more) schooling Hammerheads all around us. As they patrolled around us, no more than a few meters away from us, every single one of us was mesmerised. The time of course kept ticking, and reluctantly we had to head back to the reef and back to our boat, but wow what a dive.

After a power summit akin to that normally found at an EU summit, the decision was made to stay another day at Dadaleous. It truly was probably the best reef any of us had ever dived on, oh and of course there were the Sharks. Unfortunately one of the Zodiac (small inflatable shuttle boats) had developed engine trouble, so it was going to be “first group come, first group served” in the morning. This normally wouldn’t be a problem but of course on this dive we were all acutely aware that the first ones in would get the Sharks. So the competition was on, and in true national spirit “The Germans” truly lived up to their reputation, with Dethen actually sleeping on the dive deck in wetsuit and mask. Don’t worry though, they didn’t bank on our speed kitting up, and Johns distraction techniques, so yes we made it in first, and yes it was worth it. On this dive alone we had masses of huge Tuna; the biggest Barracuda any of us had ever seen, and (yes you’ve guessed it) loads of Sharks, big Grey Reefs this time.

Several dives later, both here and on Elphinstone, with Oceanic White Tips and (believe it or not) even more Hammerheads, it was time to wrap up the week in style. How else of course but with a BBQ on top deck, with much laughing; joking; what could loosely be described as dancing; and of course more Anglo-German relationship building (yes drinking !) we whiled away the evening right through to the early hours. Despite their best efforts our two resident ‘Alch-ies’ didn’t quite manage to finish all the booze, even they couldn’t face Jane’s Malibu, but hey who could blame them.

So in the best traditions of all great Oscar Speaches, I’d like to thank all those who helped make this THE BEST LIVEABOARD EVER. Here goes a great thanks to John; Hev; Andy (aka Trog); Jane (aka Mrs Trog); Phil; Kevan (the yank); John (the other John); Jim & Uta (our really great dive guides); The Germans and of course our boat Empress Frazer and her captain and crew, Captain Sala !

 
       
 
 

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